» mirror
any mirror is makeover worthy, but if you want to add a paper edging as shown here, you’ll want a mirror with a smooth flat edge.

» paper & paint
I used one piece of scrapbooking paper in black and white, but any paper that’s not too absorbant will work well. I used latex interior paint, but you can experiment with other types of paints and finishes.

» glue
Mod Podge works great for a project like this, as would PVA

» tools used
scissors
ruler
pencil

prep and paint the mirror
This particular mirror had a really smooth finish to start, but you will want to sand down any irregularities before painting. I used our wall paint since not only do I have a lot of it on hand, but I wanted the mirror to blend in with the wall when seen from the front view. I taped off the mirror surface and gave it a few coats of the white paint, letting it dry in between coats and overnight before the next step.

decorate!
I cut strips of a scrapbooking paper to match the depth of the mirror. The paper was twelve inches square and was more than enough to cover the entire edge.

glue
I used the mod podge to coat the back of the paper strip and then pressed it down onto the wooden edge of the mirror. I overlapped the next strip a bit, but if you have a more subtle pattern where the overlapping would be noticeable, you might want to align the ends of the paper more carefully. I continued around the mirror until I covered the entire edge with the paper. I didn’t add any glue over the paper when I was done because I wanted the natural paper texture to stay as is.

» hooks
Most of mine are from Anthropologie collected over the years, but any variety of hooks in any color finish will do.

» spray primer
Use white primer for lighter top color and grey for deeper colors. I used white for my bright yellow paint.

» spray paint
One can was more than enough for this project.

» screws & anchors
Make sure they fit through the holes in your hooks and choose a style that matches your hooks.

» vinegar

» tools used
hammer
drill
screwdriver (flathead)
level
pencil
measuring tape
mask & goggles (spray paint is great but yucky)

prepare the hooks
If your hooks are new, rinsing them in vinegar will remove any oily residue. This is a neat trick I learned from the helpful folks at my local hardware store. Make sure you rinse them in water afterwards and allow them to completely dry before the next step.

prime the hooks
Following the directions on the can of spray primer, coat the hooks on all sides with one or two thin coats of primer. I allowed mine to dry about 2 minutes between coats and just used 2 coats. I also primed the screws I was going to use to hang the hooks by screwing them into a flat piece of cardboard so the ends would all face up and be easy to paint.

paint the hooks
Again, directions are your friend as they vary for different brands of paint and the local climate. Also paint your screws with the same paint. I used 2 coats spaced a few minutes apart, let them dry overnight and then 2 more coats.

hang the hooks
Once the hooks are FULLY dry, use your best measuring and placement methods to decide where you want your hooks on the wall. I spaced mine about a foot apart and staggered the height to intentionally look irregular. If your hooks are all the same style it might look better to space them out exactly. Totally up to you! Be sure to use wall anchors if you are not drilling into the studs.

touchups
As careful as I thought I was being while screwing the hooks onto the wall, I did end up stripping some of the yellow paint from the screw heads. Spray some of your colored paint into a small plastic cup and (carefully) apply a few thin layers over the screw heads with a brush or cotton swab. Remember, spray paint is really thin and stains almost anything, so be careful not to drip any paint in unwanted places. You can see in the above photo that the paint still doesn’t 100% cover the screw, but you have to be really really close to tell.

» frames
Save money and use old frames you already have or try stores like Ross or Marshalls for inexpensive frames. It doesn’t matter what color they are to start with since you’ll be painting them.

» spray primer
I used white since my paint colors were fairly light. I was covering over bright red and yellow paint and the white primer did a great job with just one coat. Be sure to wear a mask and work outdoors in a well-ventilated, drop cloth covered workspace!

» spray paint
I chose a green theme and found five different shades of green paint. Some were gloss finish and some satin, but you really don’t notice the difference once they are all hung together. The Rust-oleum “Painter’s Touch” brand shown here worked really well and comes in a wide range of colors and cost about $4 per color.

» tools used
hammer
picture hanging hooks & nails
tape measure
paper for artwork placeholders
step stool

Follow the directions on the can of primer and make sure you remove the glass from the frames before painting. Rotate the frame around to make sure you cover all surfaces with the primer.

Paint the Frames
The sky’s the limit here! I was going for a “shades of green” theme, but you could use any color paint and any number of colors of paint. All white frames on a painted wall would look great or a mix of metallics all hung together. Check out your local hardware store to see what kinds of spray paint they have. If you’re in the Bay Area, the best selection I’ve found is at the Home Depot in San Carlos. A huge variety of really nice colors AND they aren’t locked up so you can actually look at everything without being guarded by an employee.

Plan Your Layout
To avoid putting too many extra holes in the wall, test your layout of frames on the floor first. Arrange and rearrange as much as you want and take quick photos (as I did above with my iPhone) both to have another perspective on the layout and to help you remember once you start hanging them.

Layout & Hanging Tips
The options are endless, but here are a few guidelines I use when planning a collection of frames on a wall.

• Decide on a “gutter” width that will be consistent between frames. Mine are all spaced 2 inches apart here
• Try to make each frame align with at least one edge of an adjacent frame. If you are going for the “random but organized look” this helps keep some order to the collection.
• Once you are ready to hang the frames, measure the width of your layout and decide where the entire set will be placed on the wall. I wanted my collection centered, so I made sure there was equal wall space on the left and right sides by carefully measuring a few times and marking the edges lightly with pencil.
• Start with one frame towards the center of the collection. I started with the open square one (with the hook hung in the center) since I could measure the gutter of 7 of the other frames from this one.
• This is one instance where your eyes can play tricks on you, so measure carefully to find the correct distances and don’t count on your eye, no matter how spot on you think you can be. I ended up hanging all 10 frames with only one extra hole in the wall.
• Use painters’ tape to mark edges of where you want your frames as another method. I prefer the great carpet layout plan, but do whatever works for you!

frame »
Any frame will do. I had these red IKEA frames already in the kitchen leaning against the window  to block out the direct sunlight so I went with what I had. You can go in so many different directions with your frame and artwork choice. I slid cork contact paper into the frames with the intention of adding something more interesting later, but still haven’t gotten around to changing the cork.

magnets »
You’ll need one “super strong” magnet to glue to the frame and then a second magnet that you’ll use to hold the recipe to the first magnet. I used a second strong magnet for the “top” magnet since I had them leftover from another project (making glass domed magnets). You may need to test out a variety of top magnets to make sure they are strong enough to hold a sheet of paper.

glue »
I’ve tried several different glues while working with magnets over the years and found that silicone sealer works the best. It’s a big stinky so use in a well ventilated area, but it dries clear, works on just about any surface, has a strong hold and is easy to find at your hardware store.

gluing the “bottom” magnet
Before you glue the super strong magnet to your frame, make sure that the non-glued end that will face up is attracted to your “top” magnet and not repelled by it.

Then add a dab of glue to the magnet and position it on the frame (with the frame on a flat surface). Let it dry overnight before you place the frame in an upright position or add the top magnet. If it’s not completely dry, the top magnet will rip the bottom magnet from the frame.

When the glue is fully dry, you can sandwich a recipe between the magnets and you’re good to go. I like using 2 of the super strong magnets since my recipes are in plastic protectors and therefore a little heavier than just a sheet of paper.

My frame leans on the window ledge in my kitchen above where I do most of my prep work so it’s always easy for me to look up and refer to the recipe when needed. You can put your frame almost anywhere that works for you. When not in use, I sometimes flip the frame around 180 degrees to hide the magnets from view.